Carding recommendations

[Lord777]

I will not describe how to correctly work with each shop and bank in this manual. Every shop, every bank, PayPal, and even different email domains needs to be handled differently. In detail, I will consider all these questions as part of my detailed training on working with logs, which I am planning to launch in the near future. Start dates of training, details and price tag, if you want, you can check with me personally)

But I will voice some recommendations for work.

First of all, when starting to work with the log, you must make sure that the seller is decent and that the log is sold to one person. How to do it? Simple enough. If someone has already checked the account before you, you will probably notice the traces left by the carder. For example, unpaid goods in the basket, or staf in denominations of 500-900 bucks (what is available for redirect and pickup), or gift (email digital code) - various keys to games, psn and xbox code, because many carders are trying snatch from the log immediately, hoping for instant payments. Or, by checking the list of connections from different IP addresses, on the soap, clicking on "additional information" in the lower right corner. How is it on the screen

If the ip is only yours and cardholder, then no one except you used it. Well, also check the folder for deleted messages and alert dates from various shops.

When you have made sure that the log is only yours - first of all, check access to mail. Even without cookies or passwords, having only access to soap and a little digging in the keygen files, you can get access to many shops. For example, the same Amazon, although it has a very capricious system, can be easily restored from the holder's e-mail. When asked to recover a password and enter a verification code, Amazon resorts to an additional measure of protection - a security question. Fortunately, the questions are dumb and primitive, and the answer can almost always be found in the log. For example, it asks to indicate the holder's zip code, which can be easily found either in the log, or determined by breaking through the IP address, or by simply going through other shops where there is information about the billing address. Or a phone number, with the search for which the algorithm is similar. Holder's birthday, full name and surname, card number, etc.

PS A tip that I will give you. Do not try to drive Amazon after recovery. But you can find subsidiary shops with Amazon merchant screwed on, which will give you the opportunity to drive a stuff even after an account hold, using cardboard tied to the Amazon, but without disturbing the Amazon itself. In such a story, Amazon itself will not have any effect on cancellations.

Also with banks, which usually require ssn number and credit card number for renewal. With a log and all the information on hand, you practically are cardholder, with the same knowledge that is in his own head. For those who are especially persistent, you can even crawl social networks and get information there.

Also, I strongly advise you not to be greedy and beat a bunch of stuff. Even if you have opened a bunch of shops, there are card bindings everywhere, and so on - don't be mean. There are many shops, but there are fewer credit cards and ba. Banks will suspect a bunch of suspicious transactions and freeze everything at once. As a result, you will be left with a bare ass. Remember - you cardholder. You don't run into one day to buy 100,500 laptops, gopro, 10 iPhones 12 and lam gifts for your play store. You cardholder - you save up for a shitty, not the best laptop for weeks, or even months. Pick up a product picky, save on delivery and do not chase a bunch of additional services and bells and whistles. Money cardholder is your money. And you know exactly what "saving" is, I will fucking))))

Also, when working on yus, I recommend that you find out in advance what kind of delivery the shop sends the staff to the address cardholder. For a successful drive does not guarantee you that your pack will be sent by mail suitable for re-routing (preferably Fedex). Or that cardholder lives in a pickup-accessible area. Go in, then the stuff will go - but will he get to the stingy? Another question. Although some guys even manage to drive the eBay USA into the middle and send it to the your country. I personally know such people.

Buy logs from 20 pieces. Yes, it might be expensive. But. If you buy 3-5 accounts, you simply won't be able to understand anything. If it doesn’t come in, you will have only negative experience in your memory and you will continue to piss to buy the mate. And if it enters, during the next fucking, you will think that you just got lucky once. And through such fluctuations and savings, in real life you will spend even more money, and the result will be worse. Take an acceptable amount, based on which more or less adequate statistics can be compiled. Logs are similar to gross in this - you need to work with quantity, especially for a beginner. Feel free to experiment.

Don't be discouraged if your first attempts fail. Sometimes you have to try many times before you realize that you have been shoved by a shitty machine all this time and you finally found a normal seller. Or your method of driving does not channel.

Check your logs quickly, don't let them age. 1-3 days. Not more. Whoever had time - he ate.

If you do not know what to do with the account, remember that it can be sold. There is a Bank Account with a balance, but you don't know how to drain it? Do not ruin the mat. Write on the forum and try to sell. At least pay back the purchase of the log with interest.

For beginners, I advise you to get your hands on older logs and testing. Pick them up. You will see different workarounds, then it will be easier with fresh.